This is an order for a Game Gear recap. On arrival, the console was tested and found that while it would turn on (tested using external power only), the screen wouldn’t display a game an instead a random arrangement of horizontal bars which would move around. Being this one of the symptoms of bad capacitors, the recap was taken forward.
The inside of the console wasn’t particularly bad on first sight. Starting with the recap of the main board (a dual ASIC one), pads and surrounded areas where found mildly corroded as is normal with Game Gears that have not been serviced. The recap involves removing the old capacitors and cleaning the pads to remove corrosion. This is required or new solder will not adhere to the pads. The capacitors used were high quality Nichicon ones provided by the online store ZedLabz.
Most of the new capacitors went in with no issues, but while tinning one of the pads, the pad itself came off partially. This is a sign of the corrosion having gone further in that area. The new capacitor was installed with one of the legs connected to an adjacent SMD capacitor, which is connected to the missing pad. This should not be a problem in terms of functionality.
Following the main board recap, the power board was also recapped before testing, because the power board is required for bootup. The sound board was left untouched for the time being until the main functionality of the console could be confirmed.
On testing, the console will turn on, display a blank screen, and turn off immediately after. While this is not a repair service (as stated in the listing), these are the things I tried to diagnose the issue:
- Replace the power board for a known working one
- Double check new capacitor orientation and values
- Check for sorts with a multimeter
- Use a microscope to look for visual cues of potential faults
On inspection, several vias (small holes in the PCB that transfer traces from one side to the other of the PCB) were found to be blackened, which normally means that corrosion has been caused by electrolytic liquid from faulty capacitors. This doesn’t necessarily mean that the vias are non-functional, but the corrosion can eat the copper away from the small holes and stop them from conducting. I did a continuity test in several of them and I found at least one that wouldn’t have continuity from one side to the other of the PCB. While it is not clear this is the main problem that is causing the console not to boot properly, is a sign that the corrosion caused by leaked capacitors has gone further than what it was thought initially.
Given that the console doesn’t boot, it doesn’t make sense to recap the audio board even though it has clear and worrying signs of corrosion as well.
These are the proposed next steps
- Return the console as is, without a recapped audio board, and a refund of £10
- Recap the audio board and return the console (no refund)
- Full refund and I keep the console for spare part
- Attempt repair and further diagnosis for an extra fee (£25 / hour), but there is no guarantee of repair